Fortunately Cedar as well as been an excellent light boat building material its also easy to sand, which is good cos you need to do plenty of it. Though at this stage its not too arduous.
But first all the screws that have held the planks to the frames need to be removed. Some temporary frames will have to remain in place when the hull is turned, so right now decide which ones this is going to be and glass these frames in a few places to the inside of the hull planking - Tip use polyester resin as it breaks off much easier when the time comes. Now remove all the screws. I fitted several small angle brackets to lowest plank on the inside of the hull to ensure the sheer does not pull away from the temporary frames, you want the boat to remain in close contact with the frames when all the screws have been removed. All screws out - Yes - fill all the holes up, good fun this boatbuilding lark eh.
You need to make several long boards with good handles on each of them, build them out of different thinkness of plywood, the think ones will be used for the tighter curves. See Pics. If you used quickstrip cedar as I did the hull will be reasonably fair, so not too much work is needed. Use 40 Grit paper and its easy to tear off the raised lips of the cedar planks. Carry on sanding until the hull is fair. You may find the odd part of the hull that is a bit low, don't be tempted to fair this area by applying sanding filler to this area of the hull, light weight filler is, of course, great to sand but is not strong at all, so what you are doing by applying a layer of filler over the hull to fill a low spot is creating a weak join between the glass sheath and the underlying cedar, better to make a note of the depression and ensure that its dealt with after glassing has been completed.
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